Choosing The Right Metal For Your Fine Jewelry

How do we decide which metal is the right choice for us, and why? As there are many different metal options available when selecting jewelry, we’d like to provide some information with regard to silver, gold, and platinum for fine jewelry, as well as 10k and 14k gold filled demi fine jewelry. Read on to learn all about metals, their properties and durability, and you’ll be in a better position to make an informed decision when buying handcrafted artisan jewelry!

Fine silver is 99.9% pure silver. Sterling silver marked 925 is 92.5% pure silver mixed with 7.5% of other types of metal: typically copper, nickel, or zinc. Fine silver is significantly more expensive than sterling silver, is much softer, and less likely to tarnish. Fine silver is not suggested for rings, unless the wearer takes the utmost care with the piece. Fine silver is superior for necklaces or earrings which do not receive as much wear and tear as a ring.

Sterling silver does tend to tarnish due to moisture and humidity. We recommend keeping your sterling silver in a sealed airtight bag if you live in a high humidity climate, or plan on wearing those pieces to the beach. Although sterling may tarnish more quickly than gold, gold filled, or fine silver, white toothpaste does an excellent job as a silver cleaner and is more budget friendly than silver polish.

Most individuals are not allergic to fine or sterling silver, but may be allergic to the chosen alloy of sterling silver, depending upon what the particular jeweler utilizes for the piece. Typically, mostly nickel and copper are used to make the alloy that comprises the sterling silver we know and love today. Make sure to check the alloy type and content prior to purchasing sterling silver.

24K gold is 100% gold, and only seen in yellow, as that is the true state of the metal. 18k is 75% pure gold, and 14k is 58.3% pure gold, typically mixed with copper or silver. 10k gold is 41.7% pure gold mixed with some metals. Those listed above are industry standard, and most commonly seen in the market. In some countries, you may see 22k or even 9k, as well as other variations. For the purpose of our discussion, we are going to stick with the industry standard.

Visually, 24k is a warm yellow, with 18k a little lighter, and 14k lighter still. There is no such thing as rose or white 24k gold. 18k rose gold is comprised of 75% gold, 23% copper, and 2% silver. 14k rose gold contains 58.3% gold, 38.3% copper, 2.1% silver, and 1.3% zinc. For this reason, rose gold will generally be a bit less expensive than 18k and 14k gold.

18k white gold is 75% gold, 18.5% silver, 1% copper and 5.5% zinc. 14k white gold is 58% pure gold with 42% nickel or silver alloy. Hardness, price, and durability are a function of karat and alloy mix. 24k is great for necklaces, but very expensive. 18k is a great alternative for necklaces, earrings, or a bracelet, and is stronger. 14k is the strongest, and is best for the most durable jewelry, such as wedding bands.

There are many negative connotations with “gold filled” jewelry. Plating is a surface treatment over alloyed metal. Although affordable, it is not durable, particularly with lotions, perfumes, the ocean, etc. Vermeil is a thicker plating, but still a surface treatment which will wear away over time.

Gold filled comes in 14k or 18k only. It is a 1.5mm layer, typically 5% of the total weight of the piece, mechanically fused to a base metal, which is generally brass, not silver. Gold filled pieces are ten times stronger and thicker than a surface treatment like plating or vermeil. This means gold filled pieces will typically last up to 30 years before showing the base metal. It can be worn in the pool or ocean; and is great for sensitive skin. You get all the luxury of gold at a fraction of the cost, as it is categorized as demi fine jewelry.

Now that you are educated on the difference between metals utilized in fine jewelry, check out our selection of handcrafted, sustainable jewelry at LaRue & Company! We’d be happy to answer any questions you may have, so reach out to us for all of your artisan jewelry needs.